It is likely not a ground fault because then the reset button would pop out.  Also if there was a ground in the heater element the breaker would trip as soon as it is set. That is a feature of the Balboa spa packs.  Thus I would agree that it would appear to be a low resistance heater element.

With power off measure the resistance across the heater element.  It should be 10 ohms.  If much less that is the problem.

If not use a clamp on current meter on either the balck or red service wire and determine how much current the pump is drawing and then when the heater also kicks in.  It could be a bad circuit breaker.

Dieter

Thanks for the quick response. I'll take a look at it.
-James

Do I need to measure the heater element resistance with the wiring removed? In other words, do I need to isolate it from the circuitry before I measure it? ? If not, I measured 11.3 ohms. I have not had a chance to cut into the wiring so I can make a current measurement yet.

As long as you have the power off, you can measure the resistance directly without disconnecting a copper strip.  11.3 ohms is within tolerance and is okay.

 

Another resistance measurement you can make id from a heater terminal to the heater stainless steel tube.  It should be an open circuit.

 

This same type of measurement you can make from the ground terminal to all other wires in a plug, such as the ozonator plug, the motor plug etc.  IF you get a resistance reading that device would have a ground fault.

 

Dieter

Dieter,I made more measurements today and determined that the white wire connected to J47 and the Ionizer has a direct link to ground. ?Upon closer insection, the ground connector on the board contains water and the pink element connector that plugs into the ionizer is corroded and contains water. My guess is that the ionizer element is not sealed and water has creeped up the connector to the ionizer and then into the main Balboa Spa pack. After disconnecting the Ionizer and J47 connector, I measured 0 ohms resistance between the white wire and ground. Please advise.
-James

First ensure that if the skid pad with the spa pack and the pump are protected from rain and water spillage.  These components are not weather proof. It is an unlikely scenario, that water has leaked out at the electrode then through the inside of the rubber jacketed cable and then trough the pink male connector into the female part of the pink J&J connector of the Ionizer control box.  More likely water just got in there from rain or snow melt dripping on it, although this is supposed to be a weatherproof connector.

I also can't immagine how water would get into the female receptacle (the J47 connector on the board) except by some rain, snow melting/blowing effect).

Please clarify where you are measuring the zero ohms (which means dead short).  With the ionizer unplugged, and then measuring from the plugs green wire to white wire you measure 0 ohms?

First thing yuo should do it keep the ionizer unplugged.  Then dry out the spa pack and the pump motor if these are damp or wet inside.  Then try running the tub without the ionizer, and we will deal with the ionizer next.

Dieter

 

Good Morning Dieter,
I will follow your directions. The only sign of moisture in the Spa Pack is? water inside the J47 connector's neutral connection. The rest of the spa pack and skid pad are dry. They are protected inside the cedar box that was purchased with the hot tub, so rain and water spillage are very unlikely. The ionizer is mounted on the vertical wall of the enclosure and the enclosure appears to be leak free.

I am measuring a dead short in the Spa Pack circuit board with the ionizer unplugged. I will try running the tub with the ionizer unplugged, but the short on J47 makes me nervous to do so.

-James

I ran the hottub last night with the ionizer unplugged. It did not trip the breaker. I will measure the J47 impedance this evening when I return home. Shall I send the ionizer back to be replaced?

-James

I forgot to tell you that when the white wire jumper for a receptacle is on WHT AC, the white wire pin (2nd from bottom) on the receptacle ties back to true neutral.  In that case when you measure from the ground pin, to the white wire pin, they will be electrically joined in the house breaker panel.  So you will get a 0 ohm reading.

If the white wire jumper is connected to RED AC, then the white wire pin connects to L2.  With breaker off you then will get an open circuit reading between ground and the white wire pin.  With the breaker on this terminal will be live, measuring 120 volts.

So what you now want to do is make an ohm reading from ground to the white pin and from ground to the black pin on the ionizer AMP plug.  Both should be open circuit.  If so, test the ionizer again.  If not let me know and I will put yoi in contact with Argenia for warranty.

 

Dieter

Dieter,??As suspected the Silver Water Ionizer is full of water. I unmounted it from the enclosure wall and can hear water sloshing around when shaken.?
-James

Ok James. Please provide Model and Serial number and shipping address and phone number and we will get you a replacement, that will come directly from Argenia.  Send this information to my email. [email protected]